As we left Banff National Park today, the clouds were thick, the snow was falling, and the mountains were only ghosts around us. The clouds lifted as we come down into the valley, and the evergreens that spread up the mountain sides held puffs of snow such that the entire mountain side looked like it was covered with dotted Swiss fabric. We eventually got periods of bright sunshine, so we were able to see the mountains in all their craggy grandeur.
A lot of things are closed to the winter traveler here. We weren’t able to go see Moraine Lake yesterday, which I remember from my visit of 45 years ago as being the most stunningly beautiful place in the world. We were also looking forward to seeing the spiral tunnel as we left the park. It’s a vertical railway tunnel. A retired railroad construction manager told us you can stand above it and see the train enter, and minutes later, while the tail of the train is still visible, you can see the head of the train emerge far below at a right angle to the tail. But the lookout was closed.
The construction manager also remarked on the retreat of the glaciers. He said that he was skeptical when they first started talking about global warming, but in the last few years when he drives the Icefield Parkway (the road that goes north along the spine of Banff National Park to Jasper), he is shocked to see how far the glaciers have retreated.
There are lots of warnings about grizzlies and elk here. Signs tell you to hike in groups and make lots of noise. I guess there are some advantages to traveling in the winter. The photo I posted today shows a highway overpass built for the wildlife. There are fences along the Trans Canada in the park and the animals have to use the overpasses to cross the road.
Today we descend into the Okanagan
Valley, into warmer temperatures and less expensive hotel rates. Already I crave summer again.
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